Boca Raton Insulation Attic · Spray Foam · Removal (561) 854-1888Call or text

Boca Raton & Palm Beach County

Your attic is the hottest room in the house. Your AC is paying for it.

On a July afternoon in Boca Raton, the air in an under-insulated attic sits far above the outdoor temperature, and that heat pushes down through your ceiling all day and half the night. Insulation is the only thing standing between it and the room you are sitting in.

A Boca attic on a summer afternoon

Outside air91°
Attic, poor insulation130°+
Your ceiling drywallWarm to touch
Where you want it75°

Attic temperatures vary with roof color, ventilation, sun exposure and time of day. We measure yours during the inspection rather than quoting from a chart.

Boca Raton, Delray, Deerfield, Highland Beach & Palm Beach County Attic insulation specialists Free attic inspection and written scope

Why South Florida is different

Most insulation advice is written for cold climates. Almost none of it applies here.

In Boca Raton the enemy is heat coming in, not warmth escaping. That single difference changes what belongs in your attic, how thick it should be, and which products are worth the money.

attic air, 130°F + ceiling living space, air conditioned Heat moves down all day and half the night.
A South Florida attic runs far hotter than the air outside it. That heat pushes down through the ceiling into rooms your air conditioning is trying to cool, which is why the attic is where the money is.

Palm Beach County sits in Climate Zone 1the hottest classification in the Florida Building Code, shared only with Miami-Dade, Broward, Monroe, Collier, Lee and Hendry counties. Everywhere else in Florida is Zone 2. Zone 1 homes run their air conditioning for most of the year and their heat almost never.

That means the job of your attic insulation is to slow heat moving downward into your living space through the hottest months. It is working against a 130-degree attic for eight or nine months a year, not against a cold snap for six weeks.

Humidity makes it harder

Moisture is the second half of the problem, and it is the half most homeowners never hear about. Coastal air carries a heavy moisture load. Where that moist air meets air-conditioned surfaces, you get condensation, and condensation in an attic finds insulation first.

Wet insulation does not insulate. Fiberglass that has absorbed moisture loses a significant part of its rated performance and does not recover on its own. It also compresses, mats down, and becomes a place mold is happy to live. This is why an attic three miles from the beach ages differently than one built to the same specification inland.

Insulation gets worse with time

The R-value printed on the bag is the value when new and installed correctly. Twenty years of settling, foot traffic from roofers and AC technicians, rodent activity, roof leaks and storm intrusion all subtract from it. An attic that met code the day it passed inspection may be well under that number today, and nothing about it looks obviously wrong from a ladder.

What we do

Seven services, all of them about the same thing: keeping conditioned air where you paid to put it.

01

Blown-In Attic Insulation

Loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose blown to an even, measured depth across the attic floor. It flows around wiring, framing and awkward corners that batts cannot cover without gaps, which is why it is the most common choice for existing Boca homes.

blown-in fills awkward gaps spray foam seals as it insulates batt needs a clean, square bay The right one depends on the attic, not on what is easiest to sell.
Three ways to insulate the same bay. Blown-in flows around wiring and framing, foam seals air as well as resisting heat, and batt only performs when the cavity is clean and square. Most existing attics rule out at least one of them.
02

Spray Foam Insulation

Open-cell and closed-cell polyurethane foam, applied to the roof deck or the attic floor depending on the goal. Closed-cell adds structural rigidity and acts as its own moisture barrier. Foam is the most expensive option per square foot and the right answer less often than it is sold.

03

Batt Insulation

Pre-cut fiberglass or mineral wool batts for garages, interior walls, floors over open spaces, and additions where the framing bays are clean and accessible. Straightforward, cost-effective, and only as good as the fit, a batt with a gap at the edge loses much of its value.

04

Insulation Removal

Vacuum removal of insulation that is wet, compressed, contaminated by rodents, or damaged by a roof leak. Adding new material on top of failed insulation traps the problem underneath it. When removal is warranted we will tell you, and when it is not, we will tell you that too.

05

Attic Air Sealing

Sealing the gaps insulation cannot cover: can-light housings, plumbing and wiring penetrations, the top plate of interior walls, the attic hatch. Florida's own energy guidance is explicit that insulation has to be paired with air sealing and moisture control to do its job.

06

Radiant Barrier

Reflective foil installed against the underside of the roof deck to turn back radiant heat before it ever reaches the insulation. It addresses a different mechanism than R-value does, which is why the two work together rather than replacing one another.

07

Duct Insulation & Sealing

Your ductwork runs through the hottest part of the house. Air chilled to 55 degrees at the handler arrives warmer than it should if the duct insulation has torn, sagged or come loose at the boots, a common and completely invisible loss.

Not sure

Start with the inspection

You do not need to know which of these you need. We measure the depth and condition of what is up there, check for moisture and pest activity, look at the ducts and the sealing, and give you a written scope with the reasoning attached.

The numbers

What Boca Raton attics are required to have, and what most of them actually have.

R-value measures resistance to heat flow. Higher is better, and the scale is not linear, the jump from R-11 to R-30 buys far more than the jump from R-30 to R-49.

R-11R-19R-30R-38R-49 gains flatten out resistance to heat flow
R-value measures resistance to heat flow, and the scale is not linear. Going from R-11 to R-30 buys far more than going from R-30 to R-49. Knowing where the curve flattens is how you avoid paying for depth that does nothing.
SituationCeiling / attic R-valueWhat it means for you
Florida code minimum, Climate Zone 1
Palm Beach County included
R-30The legal floor for new construction. A floor, not a target.
Florida code minimum, Climate Zone 2
Central and North Florida
R-38Higher than ours, because those homes also heat in winter.
Common in Boca homes built before the 1990sR-11 to R-19Roughly a third to two thirds of today's minimum.
Attic that has settled or been walked on for 20 yearsBelow its original ratingCompressed insulation is thinner insulation.
Typical threshold for the FPL ceiling insulation rebateUnder R-8If you are here, you have been overpaying for cooling for years.

Code minimums are from the Florida Building Code, Energy Conservation, 8th Edition (2023). R-value applies to the insulation material itself, drywall and roof decking do not count toward it.

There is an FPL rebate, and there is a catch worth knowing

Florida Power & Light runs a Residential Ceiling Insulation Program that pays a flat rebate on qualifying installations. To qualify you generally need an active FPL residential account, whole-house central electric air conditioning and heating, and an existing verified ceiling insulation R-value below R-8.

The catch: FPL requires the work to be performed by a contractor enrolled in their Participating Independent Contractor program. Ask us about your eligibility and we will tell you straight whether that rebate is available on your job, we would rather you hear it from us than find out after the invoice.

FPL sets these terms and can change them, including the rebate amount. We confirm current requirements with FPL before we tell you what your job qualifies for.

Self-assessment

You can diagnose most of this from your couch.

None of these on their own proves the insulation is the problem. Three or more usually means it is worth someone going up there with a tape measure.

can lighttop plateduct bootattic hatch Insulation slows heat. It does not stop air. These are sealed first.
Insulation slows heat moving through a surface. It does nothing about conditioned air escaping through the gaps around lights, plumbing, duct boots and the attic hatch. Sealing those first is what makes the insulation above them actually work.
  • Rooms that never match. The bedroom on the west side runs warmer than the rest of the house no matter what the thermostat says.
  • The AC runs and runs. Long cycles, short breaks, and it still does not feel cold.
  • Bills climbing faster than rates. Same house, same habits, higher number.
  • A warm ceiling. Put your palm flat on the ceiling in the late afternoon. It should not feel warm.
  • You can see the joists. If the wood framing is visible above the insulation, the depth is almost certainly under code.
  • Uneven coverage. Thick in the middle, thin at the eaves, bare patches near the attic hatch.
  • Evidence of animals. Droppings, tunnels, or a smell. Contaminated insulation is a removal job, not a top-up.
  • Any past roof leak. Even one that was repaired. The insulation underneath it usually was not.

A word about savings claims

We are not going to promise you a percentage.

Every insulation company in South Florida advertises a number, save 30%, save 40%, cut your bill in half. We do not, and it is worth explaining why.

What you actually save depends on how bad the starting point is, how big and how shaded the house is, the age and efficiency of your air handler, the condition of your ducts, what your roof is made of, what colour it is, and how you personally use the thermostat. Two identical houses on the same street produce different numbers.

An attic sitting at R-8 that gets brought up to code properly will produce a difference you can feel and see on the bill. An attic already at R-30 will not, and anybody telling you otherwise is selling you something you do not need.

What we will do is show you the measurement. The depth we found, the R-value it works out to, what code asks for, and what the gap costs you to keep. Then you decide.

How the job runs

Four steps, no surprises between them.

Inspection

We get into the attic, not a look from the hatch. Depth measured in several places, moisture and pest check, ducts and penetrations noted, photos taken so you can see what we saw.

Written scope and price

What we found, what we recommend, what it costs, and what happens if you do nothing. Line by line. If part of the job can wait, we will say which part.

Installation

Floors and pathways protected, equipment staged outside, removal first where it is needed, then air sealing, then new material to the agreed depth. Depth markers left in place so it can be verified.

Walkthrough

Photos of the finished attic, the depth achieved, the material and its rating, and the site left clean. You should be able to check our work without climbing a ladder.

Service area

Boca Raton and the surrounding Palm Beach County communities.

Boca RatonEast BocaWest BocaBoca del Mar Mission BaySandalfoot CoveHighland BeachDelray Beach Deerfield BeachBoynton BeachParklandCoconut Creek Lighthouse PointHillsboro Beach

If you are just outside this list, call and ask. We would rather tell you honestly that you are out of range than send someone an hour each way and price the drive into your job.

Questions

The things people actually ask on the phone.

How much insulation should a Boca Raton attic have?

Palm Beach County is in Climate Zone 1, where the Florida Building Code sets a minimum ceiling insulation value of R-30. That is the floor for new construction, not a recommendation to aim at. Florida's own home energy guidance describes R-30 to R-38 as current best practice for attic insulation. If your attic is materially below R-30, bringing it up is usually the single highest-value change available in the house.

Can I just add new insulation on top of what is there?

Often yes. Topping up dry, clean, undamaged insulation is normal and it is the cheaper path. There are three situations where it is the wrong move: the existing material is wet or has been wet, it is contaminated by rodents, or it is so compressed that adding to it just buries a problem. In those cases the old material comes out first. We will tell you which situation you are in during the inspection, and we have no reason to invent a removal job, it makes the quote bigger and the sale harder.

Is spray foam worth it in South Florida?

Sometimes, and less often than it is sold. Closed-cell foam is an excellent product, high R-value per inch, its own moisture barrier, and it adds rigidity to the structure. It is also the most expensive option per square foot by a wide margin. For a typical Boca house with an accessible attic and no moisture problem, properly installed blown-in insulation plus air sealing gets most of the same comfort result for a fraction of the cost. Foam earns its price in specific situations, a sealed attic assembly, tight or irregular framing, ducts you want inside the conditioned envelope. We will tell you which one you have.

How long does the work take?

A straightforward blown-in top-up on an average Boca home is usually a same-day job. Adding removal of the existing material extends it, because the old insulation has to be vacuumed out and bagged before anything new goes in. Spray foam involves cure time and ventilation of the space afterward. You will get a realistic time estimate in the written scope before you commit to anything, and we do not put a stopwatch promise on a job we have not seen yet.

Will new insulation stop my AC running constantly?

It will reduce the load your AC has to fight. Whether it fixes the symptom depends on whether insulation was the cause. If your air handler is undersized, your ducts are leaking, or your refrigerant charge is low, insulation will help but it will not solve it. This is exactly why the inspection includes a look at the ductwork. If we think the problem is on the HVAC side, we will say so rather than sell you an attic full of fiberglass that does not fix it.

What is a radiant barrier, and do I need one on top of insulation?

They handle different mechanisms. R-value slows heat that moves by conduction, through material. A radiant barrier reflects radiant heat, the energy the hot roof deck beams down into your attic. In a climate with our sun exposure, radiant gain is a real share of the problem, which is why a barrier can add meaningful comfort on top of good insulation rather than duplicating it. On an attic that is already well below code on R-value, insulation comes first.

Is there any rebate available?

Florida Power & Light runs a Residential Ceiling Insulation Program that pays a flat rebate on qualifying installations. It generally requires an active FPL residential account, whole-house central electric heating and cooling, and an existing verified ceiling R-value below R-8, so it is aimed squarely at homes with very little insulation. FPL also requires the installer to be enrolled in their Participating Independent Contractor program. Ask us and we will give you a straight answer about whether that rebate is on the table for your job. Confirm current terms with FPL directly, since they set them and can change them.

Do you charge for the inspection?

No. The attic inspection and the written scope that comes out of it are free, and there is no obligation attached to either. If the honest answer is that your insulation is fine and your money is better spent elsewhere, that is the answer you will get.

How do I know the job was done to the depth we agreed?

Depth markers get left in the attic and photographed. You will receive photos of the finished work showing the material at the agreed depth, along with the product and its rating. You should not have to take a contractor's word for something buried above your ceiling, and with our jobs you do not have to.

Find out what is actually up there.

A measured attic inspection, photographs of what we find, and a written scope with the reasoning attached. Free, and no obligation.

Call (561) 854-1888